Often called the 8th Wonder of the world, The
Banaue Rice Terraces are known and considered as one of man’s greatest achievements. The
Ifugao who are “people of the earth” have lived there for centuries and built the world famous rice terraces which have been carved by hand on the steep mountainside.Our visit took us to many such terraces in Banaue but the ultimate Batad rice terrace famous for its amphitheatre-like formation was an absolute must for 16 of us from the tour. I have to say we had a most amusing selection process carried out by our guides Aurora and Jean the previous evening after dinner. Each person had a personal interview and brief on the challenge ahead: “could we make the descent into Batad and then climb back up again in the heat within 4 hours and not 9!” It felt like Scott’s final expedition to the Antarctic in 1912!
Undaunted but greatly challenged as to whether one should go on this tour A to Batad or on tour B (Hapao) or even a relaxing Disneyland type trip in a jeepney (tour C)! The 16 definites went to bed that evening knowing of their desire to reach Batad and were told they had to be FIT! We had Wati–driven and determined, Sue the golfer, Hans the Matterhorn climber, Claudia and Carolyn tennis players, Pandy aerobically fit, Claire-Lise inner strength, Marinka regular walker, Erik and Therese–young and fit, and of course the leader of the pack Aurora, to name a few.
An early 5 am start up and off from the hotel, we were taken by jeepney to the junction on the National Road from where we would make our gentle walk towards the ridge before climbing down to the quaint Batad Hotel and Inn for a half way coffee stop (Starbucks with a view). The air was cool and we were all keen, with a spring to our step! Wati strode ahead like a woman with a mission able to reach the ridge and see the view as we came over the brow of the hill. There before us all was the most beautiful and breathtaking view–2000 year old terraces cascading down the mountain like an open coliseum. Some of the paddies were green and others still needed to be planted. It was quite stunning as the sun settled over the valley and we could see a traditional Ifugao village nestled at the base of the mountain with its cogon grass and red tin roofs.
Two hours later, walking briskly and steeply down, we had made it to the coffee stop and collapsed on to chairs and took in this scenery. Luncheon was ordered from delightful Rita who owned and ran her restaurant and made pizza dough, pancakes and soup. After the 30-minute stop we discarded our coats and woolly hats and were advised to carry only the barest minimum for the final phase. Again–Wati to the fore–as we descended sharply down the mountain, walking gradually along the walls of the terraces. For those in walking/hiking boots it was quite a tricky maneuver so ballet shoes came into their own as I found out! We actually stood in the midst of this landscape and it felt just like being in a film as we twisted and turned zigzagging our way through communities of children playing, pigs grunting, babies being washed, men sleeping, until we finally hit the base of the village.
We had made it (one way at least)! Photographs, much relief and laughter as we sat along the wall outside the church thinking how worthwhile the trip down had been and realising the hard part was ahead of us. The sun was now up and we were hot but needed to conserve energy for the final push back up the mountainside. We had entered another world in Batad where time stood still: no phone sounds, houses perched on the edge of walls, clean surroundings and of course more sweeping landscapes all around us. It seemed just heavenly and unreal coming from Manila to such open spaces.
At 10.30 am we had to gather ourselves up and start the ascent. The steps up seemed to go
on forever and silence reigned as we focused on deep breaths and yet encouraged by the fact that
Rita had prepared a feast. Now and again we would glance back to look at the diminishing base village but we had to keep the brisk walk going. Cheeks became redder, breaths longer and garments discarded! Another 50 minutes later we were seated on the verandah lunching on delicious homemade goodies, knowing that a final push was needed to get back to the brow of the hill.
After drinking masses of water and clearing out Rita’s shop of handicrafts we had to move on for the final bit. It was now extremely hot and the pace was on to reach the top in time. Hans by now had rolled up his trousers and had removed his shirt! He led from the front followed by the rest of us. Claire-Lise kept an even walk throughout with the tennis players behind. Erik had now retrieved the camera tripod from Therese who up until now had carried it most of the time! Gabi was not fazed at all and neither was Sue who must have treated it like 18 holes or more. Pandy sprung along and of course Aurora was always cheerful urging us to keep going.
The sun was high now as we hit the ridge. As each person made it up to this final point we gave an almighty cheer. What a
jolly fantastic achievement and all before 1pm. We had made it and Sony would be pleased to have us back at the hotel in time for our departure. It had been one of my most thrilling experiences in the Philippines.
—from Miss Adventure (Carolyn Gibson)
photos by Erik Lacson and Pandy Singian